PIERRE ALEXANDRE DE LOOZ: You interned with Jean Paul Gaultier in the early 90s, and then assisted him in his studio. Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster, Discover Pictures III, 2012, “The Balenciaga approach to femininity is a boyish attitude, confidence, intelligence, a demand for quality, and an avant-gardism in the sense that you are courageous enough to look different.”. As a young designer, you took an unmistakably unique approach to retail expansion at Balenciaga, not surprisingly. It’s one of the reasons I wanted to stop. Discover all details on how to return in the Client Service area. Since business, banking, and groups have taken the upper hand today, decision-makers follow finance more so than creative direction, even if they are sensitive to it. He’s really interesting, having done things so differently from others. I have my predilections for the motion of the body, showing leg, lengths, and décolleté at the shoulders or on the back, which is so much better than a bad décolleté on the front. It was my perspective on Balenciaga and I am very proud of what it is today. I wanted to reconstruct them to look good from all sides to give women nice behinds! The whole industry is based on timing. Would you say, Gaultier redefined what we accept as the beauty of fashion? Artistic Director of Women's Collections, Louis Vuitton. I cherished the idea of a laboratory. I loved her. Shop our nicholas ghesquiere balenciaga selection from the world’s finest dealers on 1stDibs. We’re told the market is hungry for novelty, but I am not sure it’s as desperate for fast-fashion as we might think. He’s a free electron. We worked on them right away. I was 18. Ghesquière, like Balenciaga, is a self-taught designer, and apprenticed to Jean-Paul Gaultier and Agnes B. Rei Kawakubo works with her husband, but it’s fundamentally a creative vision. Bowles, whose collection now includes a few items by Ghesquière and is actively looking for more, elucidates: “The typical path of a maison tended to be a constant return and referring to the work of what might be its glory days. Apparently, we’ve got to do all this because the market demand will absorb all this information and all these goods. American buyers told me at first that they would not buy the stronger pieces, but in the end they did and it was fairly balanced. According to his current and former design staff, Ghesquière reacts favorably to what’s weird, unusual, and surprising and will dismiss the obvious and commonplace. https://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/nicolas-ghesquiere It demonstrates to someone with money that what is popular and amusing can have promise, and for those of limited means, that what they enjoy will one day become luxury, and that’s the direction in which things have always evolved. In this sense, this reality seems essential to me, and moreover it makes the garment more accessible, and therefore salable. I learned it had to crystallize the heritage of the house, but people expected it to be modern. Ghesquière likes the image of a replicant, hints Pierre Hardy, the lifelike android imagined by Ridley Scott for the 1982 cult classic Blade Runner. But not in a commercial sense: reality interests me much more than merchantability. “You’ll be very happy”, they said, since it’s surely a fantasy for a designer to have a store on Madison. Working for a prestigious brand is no longer viewed in the same way,” Steven Faerm, Assistant Professor at Parsons The New School for Design has observed. Ironically, aren’t the accessories that enable this international cliché the lifeblood of fashion brands? SEVEN WONDERS: Nicolas Ghesquière’s greatest Balenciaga hits. Cathy Horyn has called Nicolas Ghesquière the most important designer of our generation … They’re not always the easiest things to wear, but if you put them on someone who understands them and loves them, there’s nothing more beautiful. Their process and production speeds are incredible, and I think they have the big bosses of luxury drooling because everyone fantasizes about achieving that level of efficiency. Rigid seasonal structure, presentations, delivering collections in the classic sense, developing a retail and distribution system that starts with wholesale, to have enough funds to set up our own stores that can take over from wholesale, perfume licensing at one moment, eyewear licensing at another; all these actions are part of a classic luxury goods format, even if we did it our own way at Balenciaga. You are right, it’s a message that is harder to communicate in Asia. I’d think “Stop, stop, stop!” It’s not necessarily about complexity, because that’s what it takes to construct the pants, especially the insides, so the behind looks good, so the zipper doesn’t bulge, so it presses against the body or stands out where it should, regardless of who is wearing them. While Balenciaga was able to avoid mindless rephrasing of its own designs or anybody else’s, other luxury labels have not. Buonomano, who says Ghesquière’s work “hit like a Tsunami” when he was 14, combed the Internet and the media for catalytic images at the pace of 20–30 a day while at Balenciaga, a job which started by documenting work sessions and cataloging books, and has exploded into a massive visual library. I love it. NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE has finally spoken out about his departure from Balenciaga, revealing that he decided to leave the fashion house after 15 years because he "ended up feeling too alone".The designer's exit from the label was confirmed in November last year. I would really like it if we invented a new term for a new type of collection that applied the rigor of couture and could also be highly technological. At Ghesquière’s level, success requires rapid-fire reactions and 360-degree surveillance, managing the previous collection while planning the next one and shaping what’s immediately on the worktable. During his tenure, Ghesquière was courted and declined offers to leave his post, even as success was peaking, which demonstrates a steely dedication. It’s a mental origami that folds space and time, yesterday and tomorrow, macro and micro together into a densely packed workday. Sie ließen ihn sogar High Heels produzieren, die aussahen wie orthopädisches Schuhwerk. Nicolas is the sort of person who loves swimming in rough water.” Stewart’s vision of Ghesquière, which she has gleaned from engagements like a joint appearance at the 2012 Costume Institute Gala, is as infectious as it is insightful. I’ll never ape it. Nicolas Ghesquière to Leave Balenciaga. It’s unhealthy. What does the immediate future look like? Demna Gvasalia named Creative Director of Balenciaga. With some assistance, I found a couple of old warehouse spaces in Chelsea that I showed the executives. In France, cargo pants were totally exotic. Nicolas was very respectful of Balenciaga too, I think. I remember Jean Paul Gaultier saying, and he may have been referring to the grands noms – signature brands – like Dior and Jean Patou, “We should assign one designer for a year to develop their interpretation of one of these signature brands. Paradoxically, I think John Galliano shook up couture when you think of his techno-futurist moments at Dior. Would you say your interest in smuggling material and cultural trash into the world of high fashion is a form of futurism? Whenever plastic surgery becomes bespoke, and design enters the equation, it’s a license I’d sign immediately. The quality defines Ghesquière's Balenciaga as unique. “The Balenciaga fashion house and Nicolas Ghesquière have announced their joint decision to end their working relationship as of November 30 2012. Ghesquiere ha creato un gilet patchwork nella sua collezione primaverile che somigliava a quello disegnato da Wong nel 1973. Actually, Jean Paul was able to make an extraordinary, classic wardrobe on the one hand and season defining, purely fashion oriented pieces on the other. Yes, of course. For investors, who pay for front row seats, it probably is. There were pants in my first collection. Self (as Nicolas Ghesquière) 2018 Louis Vuitton: Spring/Summer 2019 at Paris Fashion Week (Video short) Self - Designer 2015-2017 Habillé(e)s pour l'hiver (TV Series documentary) Self 2000 The designer who brought Balenciaga to the cutting edge is now breathing new life into heritage brand Louis Vuitton. You need a prototype. Das weiß keiner so genau. 11 talking about this. This confederacy suits me quite well today. How do you make them, as we were saying, real? Had the designer outgrown the brand? Of course Miuccia Prada and Patrizio Bertelli are a very effective duo. There are people who can convey vulnerability in their runway presentations, but my shows are not about that. It’s particularly true in France, where entrepreneurship is discouraged in comparison to the rest of the world, and yet our cultural values inspire enterprising by sheer contrast. You’ve left Balenciaga, but are you taking time to breathe? Madman’s work.”, Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster, Discover Pictures IV, 2012. Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster, Discover Pictures VII, 2012. It showed me that everything was possible. The fashion world used to be relatively marginal. Marie-Amélie Sauvé, we work together but it so much more. “Going down-market is easy and there are so many brands that do it well and efficiently. When I do something I want to get involved at every level. Eine Ausbildung im Bereich Mode hat Ghesquière nie absolviert. He can be endlessly reinterpreted by other talents who have bold styles and that’s how he is a common denominator, everyone has a version of his oeuvre, because he has entered the collective unconscious. Balenciaga is now owned by Kering, formerly known as PPR, and its womenswear and menswear was headed by Nicolas Ghesquière. NOTE: PS Note: Rare early piece by Ghesquière. It was laborious and there are countless stories like it, Ghesquière says. They take up space. Fragility happens in the clothes when they are worn and some of the best compliments I’ve received are on that order: “My partner thinks I am so sexy in Balenciaga.” Of course, I think about it when I design. I took my role to be a technician, to be extremely precise and surprising without losing my initial creative intention. Alternatively, orders can be returned in one of our Balenciaga Stores. The “flowers” collection did well, but so did the “punk”. There have been some very successful collaborations between designers and multinational retailers, especially by H&M, but it questions everyone’s future. There were pant shapes I created for my second season at Balenciaga that are still bestsellers. Ghesquière laughs thinking on the contraptions he introduced at Balenciaga, acrid smells that emanated from specially installed ovens, laminating presses, and fusing machines, and how it all started by dying cargo pants in a friend’s bathtub. How did they happen? NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE: In a way it’s true. For the last 10 years fashion has been feeding off fashion – no doubt connected to shorter production timelines and greater revenues – and it’s getting repetitive.” Delcampe considers Ghesquière, along with designers Martin Margiela and Hussein Chalayan to be the most notable researchers of recent memory and directly relevant to the next generation. Was it too hard a sell? What techniques do you use in your laboratory that may not be common in other studios? Thanks to Ghesquière, Stewart has learned that fashion doesn’t necessarily conceal like a mask but can spark aspects of one’s personality that are otherwise sedated: “You can play any character you can imagine in these clothes.” Renowned make-up artist Pat McGrath, who has created everything from organic to alien effects for Ghesquière on recent shows and campaigns, accentuates the fact that, “There is always a touch of reality that has to remain through the make-up. As if upstaging the event’s over-dressed, pumped-up glamour, Ghesquière created a gown of ethereal, skin-colored rags. Over the years, Ghesquière has fostered a trusted think-tank around him, including Hardy, creative consultant Marie-Amélie Sauvé, and artist Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster. Die frühere Siemens-Managerin Janina Kugel kennt sich aus mit Führungskräften. Flora Botanica was the second fragrance and with this one I asked them to name the target: They said, “It has to be very young and to relate to your fashion, Ghesquière for Balenciaga.” I met Kristen Stewart on a Bruce Weber shooting when she was 13-years-old and we got along well. The maison survived thanks to the perfumes licenses, but also because Balenciaga’s legacy remains vital. Miuccia Prada reinterprets it every few seasons. I’m not saying it was better before: today there are so many more possibilities, the profession is structured, there are established training programs and it’s appreciated. Balenciaga 這款機車包，是 Nicolas Ghesquière 於 2000 年時所推出的，當時該包款僅是搭配當今服裝秀順應推出的配件，但因為在當年許多品牌力推簡約包款的情況下，機車包問世時並未獲得很高的迴響。 曾經乏人問津. Nevertheless, there’s an undeniable complexity in your work. Whether in Japan or China, in the U.S. of course, and in Europe, there is a cliché of the fashionista whose primary concern is achieving that girlie, stiletto look, never mind if it’s fashionable. I didn’t want to play the game anymore, at least in that way. 2013-nov-20 - Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2008-2009. I couldn’t tell you what’s really happening. Fashion weeks are more concerned with visibility then sustainability, that’s for sure. They are people who are part of my professional framework. Manual for Freedom, Research & Creativity. It was very important for me to have witnessed these designers build their own maison, express their own ideas, their individuality. Garments, on the other hand, can simply be a bargain item. We spent so much time together. Fashion. Luxury is the art of transformation, handling, and adding value to even the most commonplace material. To be sustainable you have to take the time to make it happen. At Balenciaga, what have been the personal relationships that have influenced you the most? Nicolas Ghesquière hat das Traditionshaus Balenciaga wieder zu dem gemacht, was es einst war: eines der funkelndsten Lichter am Modefirmament. The creative director has to be someone “promotable.” I’ve heard this a lot: “This one is promotable and this one is not.” It’s probably the same for actors. BALENCIAGA BY NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE F/W 1998 LEATHER COAT. An ever-changing database, it supplies what Buonomano calls the “chromosomes” behind every collection. Since business, banking, and groups have taken the upper hand today, decision-makers follow finance more so than creative direction, even if they are sensitive to it. I was told the consumer doesn’t care and neither did the group. It was nevertheless a golden age of serious experimental work and independent designers. You lose your identity, which is priceless and I didn’t want to jeopardize it. The rumor mill spun with parole, parole, and parole. Dominique suggested we keep a lot of the rough existing details, and we worked with what he had, which wasn’t so bad. What looks, at a distance, as if it might be gray-blue denim is actually vegetable-dyed leather. Ghesquière was an assistant at Jean Paul Gaultier before he landed the job doing licensing for Balenciaga. Nicolas Ghesquière, one of the most critically acclaimed and influential designers working today, is leaving his post as creative director of Balenciaga. The process that leads to the runway is a long and arduous form of Darwinian natural selection. Yet, the most contemporary designers like Helmut Lang and Jil Sander still found something relevant in Cristóbal Balenciaga’s universe, referencing his abstraction in their work. Luxury groups jockey for talent with less oversight than professional sports teams, but with equal zest. You felt like you were at the heart of a nuclear reactor: it’s where things were happening, where you wanted to be. Her femininity should go unquestioned, but at the same time it shouldn’t be obvious. I was extremely concerned. He didn’t rely on people to get where he is. Their work helped reveal something more contemporary in Balenciaga then a direct couture interpretation. The stores may have been varied, but your identity is crystal clear. It will be amazing, morphing and transforming the body and inventing new criteria for the body. The embellishment was just a scarf. Nicolas Ghesquière a Balenciaga e Louis Vuitton. Email; Print; Share. It was as if I had finally found clothes that suited me best. Everyone wants to be part of it, to own a piece of it, to appear interested and aware. Nicholas Ghesquière for Balenciaga, late 2007. The designer's exit from the label was confirmed in November last year. To assume there is only one kind of Ghesquière woman is to miss the picture. See more ideas about Nicolas ghesquiere, Fashion design and Balenciaga. There is a sort of nouvelle bourgeoisie that has taken hold. Balenciaga è dal 2001 di proprietà di Kering, precedentemente noto come PPR, e il suo abbigliamento da donna e da uomo era diretto da Nicolas Ghesquière.Ghesquière, come Balenciaga, è un designer autodidatta, e apprendista di Jean-Paul Gaultier e Agnes B. Fanciful propositions, sketches, shreds of a historic Balenciaga fabric, a chair, or a vase may ignite an idea. What is the BoF 500? “I always try to bring him with me but without his knowledge because it’s just my wardrobe,” she explained with a sparkle of poetic license. Did he help change the basic terms of what can be beautiful? Super light cotton-mix main body. It’s amazing to think you can address such massive audiences, but at the same time I’d like to start by communicating to those who are able to understand the brand and spread the right message. You’d never seen cargo pants like this, a real mixture of high and low. With a little hindsight, how is Balenciaga viewed today? He was just like, ‘Believe for me.’ I thought it was the coolest fucking thing.”. “Nicolas had a deeply rooted desire to propel the brand to higher and higher levels of sophistication – an incredible intuition,” says Pierre Hardy, Ghesquière’s romantic partner during his early years at Balenciaga and a collaborator for shoe design on nearly every collection. Balenciaga was once “dusty and annoying,” remembers Hardy. Eden Pritikin can remember the exact piece of clothing that threw her world off its axis: A jungle print scuba top from Balenciaga’s spring/summer 2003 collection, designed by Nicolas Ghesquière. By the time of the “scuba” collection Spring/Summer 2006 – diving suits as dresses – we were already gluing foam to jersey – using off-the-shelf neoprene would have been too basic. I take a particular pleasure in making vests. It has to be embodied by someone. Jetzt geht er. I am not saying its suitable for a fragrance, but I liked that it was urban and captured life as we know it. The designer fuses the house’s historical codes of impeccable tailoring with pop culture-laden playfulness. It’s easier to destroy and start again, then to restore. Doch auch für Ghesquière muss es sich mindestens so anfühlen, als hätte man ihm ein sehr wichtiges Organ amputiert; 15 Jahre lang war er bei Balenciaga angestellt. Welcome.” I didn’t really know Steven Meisel at the time and I received a massive bouquet from him. It was the collection for which my peers decided to recognize me: “That’s it, he’s ready; we’ve been waiting for this.” I received so many letters, which basically said “Welcome to this world!” Karl Lagerfeld wrote, “In the 60s, Paris was Chanel and Balenciaga. His talent was soon noticed, however, and in 1997 he was appointed to creative director. Size: FR 36-38. I’ve also felt androgynous and rigid. Ghesquière was an assistant at Jean Paul Gaultier before he landed the job doing licensing for Balenciaga. I started with a flea market or a vintage find, which I reconstructed in one afternoon with two assistants and some patches of leather before handing it off to the atelier. It’s true of men also. The way you work with materials seems to be a way of counteracting wannabe luxury with non-luxury, which in the end revitalizes the industry’s end game. https://www.theguardian.com/.../nov/06/nicolas-ghesquiere-quits-balenciaga Do the H&M’s and the Zara’s of the world scare you? Bob Fosse’s Cabaret (1972) is not degrading at all, even if the subject was radical for the time. You are always aware of the blemishes and all of a sudden they were screaming out loud! I knew we wouldn’t sell as many $8,000 items as we would $500 items, but I made a point of seeing that the runway clothes would go into production even in small quantities. By Feifei Sun Nov. 05, 2012. There’s Charlotte Gainsbourg of course. It has to look good closed, but it also has to look good open. Nicolas Ghesquière nasce il 9 maggio del 1971 a Comines, una piccola... Nicolas Ghesquière e la rinascita di Balenciaga. Nein - er war Balenciaga. At the same time I told them I loved the smell of gasoline and gas stations; it’s a smell that we all know. Alaïa welcomes his close friendships with patrons and models directly into his process and his brand image, something you also do. Ghesquière donerà alla maison una nuova vita dopo la morte negli anni Settanta del fondatore Cristóbal Balenciaga, non allontanandosi troppo dal solco segnato dallo stilista spagnolo ma aggiungendo componenti futuriste e avanguardiste che rimandano ad immaginari fantascientifici, come la saga di Star Wars o alla serie La fuga di Logan. They also encapsulate Ghesquière’s overall practice sprung from a world of mediagenic stimulation and not from couture alone, as was the case for an earlier generation. I regret that it is seen as a house of bags, though I am implicated, because I’d like it to remain a maison de mode.
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